You may know Brazil for its famous Caipirinha cocktail made with Cachaça, but did you know it’s also a major player in the wine game? That’s right! Brazil is actually the third largest wine-producing country in South America, right behind Argentina and Chile.
And did you know… South America sponsored this year’s Vancouver International Wine Festival in Canada, giving wine lovers like us the chance to sample thousands of wines from one epic spot. The Miolo Wine Group, Brazil’s top wine exporter, set me up with the opportunity to travel to Brazil through the glass at this amazing event.
So buckle up and get ready to explore Brazil’s wine scene like never before! From the top wine regions and unique climate to must-try local foods and travel tips, this blog post has got you covered. And don’t worry, we’ve even got tasting notes from the wines of Miolo Wine Group waiting for you at the end of this article. Let’s get sipping, shall we?
Table of Contents
clickable links
History of Brazilian Wine
Brazil’s been trying to make wine happen since 1532, when Portuguese settlers brought over the first vines. But let’s just say things didn’t exactly take off right away…
Fast forward to the 19th century, when two key discoveries changed the game for Brazilian wine. First, the American vine Isabella (or Isabel in Portuguese) proved to thrive in the humid climate. Then, the Italians came in the 1870s and successfully planted some seriously high quality vitis vinifera in the Serra Gaúcha region.
The elevated terrain provided cool nights for the grapes. Moreover, the Italian winemakers loved it too, feeling just like they were back in the Alps above Piedmont. And in 1913, they even produced Brazil’s first ‘Asti’ sparkling wine from Moscato de Canelli.
But it wasn’t until the 1970s that things really got serious with big names like Moët et Chandon (France), Seagrams (Canada), Domecq (Spain), Martini & Rossi (Italy), and Suntory (Japan) all setting up shop in Brazil.
Finally, Brazil got official recognition for its wine with the establishment of its first high-tier appellation. The Vale dos Vinhedos AO or Appellation of Origin was enshrined in law with strict quality standards in 1996. (Note: in Portuguese, AO is DO – Denomiaçao di Origem – but all of the Brazilian websites use AO, so I’ve used that too).
Brazil's Wine Regions
So, let’s get juicy about Brazilian grapes! While most of the grapes grown in Brazil are of the Concord variety and meant for munching or turning into juice, some savvy hybrids have been created to withstand the tropical climate.
But don’t count Brazil out when it comes to wine! Nearly 10% of the country’s wine production is from the European vitis vinifera, and their sparkling wines are top-notch, making up a whopping 20% of exports.
Furthermore, all those vinifera grapes that couldn’t withstand phylloxera in Europe – think Alicante Bouchet, Marselan, and Petit Manseng – they are all killing it in Brazil.
But wait, there’s more! If you’re looking to sip other serious Brazilian vino, Master Sommelier Evan Goldstein recommends trying any and all Merlot-based wines, as well as sampling the fresh-pressed grape juice offered at every winery. (See the tasting notes of a Merlot from Quinto do Seival at the end of this post).
Alas, we can’t hit every region in this post. So, we’ll prime our palate first with Serra da Mantiqueira as it’s conveniently nestled between São Paulo and Rio de Janeiro.
Then we’ll visit the southern state of Rio Grande do Sul. Here we’ll meet the quality wine epicenter, the Serra Gaúcha, and Brazil’s only two AO’s,
Finally, we’ll check out a newer region. Companha sits as far south as you can travel on the borders of Uruguay and Argentina. Come fly with me!
Serra da Mantiqueira
If you’re looking for an adventure-filled wine-tasting trip, look no further than Serra da Mantiqueira, the wine region that’s got it all! This area is a paradise for outdoorsy types. Take to the skies with some paragliding, hit the trails for a hike, or scale some rocks, all through stunning landscapes.
What’s so special about this region, you ask?
Well, for starters, the area is mostly tropical, yet in the foothills of the Mantiqueira Mountains at 1000-1600 meters above sea level (that’s 5250 feet at its height, for the rest of you). The soil is a unique mix of volcanic origin, with granite, terra rossa, sand, and clay all playing a part.
The area is known for its early-drinking, fruit-forward wines and Amanda Barnes, author of the South American Wine Guide, recommends seeking out the Syrahs from Serra da Mantiqueira.
Which is fine by me ‘cuz I love Syrah!
Brazilians Have Ingeniously Adapted to the Climate
Yet, there are some obvious challenges to grape growing in the Serra di Mantiqueira.
Due to it’s sub-tropical latitude, this part of Brazil experiences 2 harvests per year. That means that the vines don’t get a break during winter dormancy. Furthermore, harvesting in summer months is extremely problematic; only the earliest-ripening varieties can be picked before the summer rains set in.
So what did they do? The solution: they altered the life cycle of the vineyard and instead harvest grapes for premium wine in the winter, where sunny days and cool nights reign supreme.
But more to this point, Miolo Wine Group, the largest exporter of wines from Brazil, has a winery that’s much further north than Serra di Mantequeira in Vale do São Francisco.
Still, their Terranova Winery deals with a similar sub-tropical climate. I spoke with Rafael Boscaini, the Export Analyst at Miolo Group, at the Vancouver International Wine Festival. He says not only do they produce some of their top wines from the area using just winter-harvested grapes, but they only make those wines in the very best years. The rest of the time, the grapes are used for their entry-level wines or for making fresh-pressed grape juice.
Still, all the wines I sampled from Miolo Wine Group at the Vancouver International Wine Festival, come from their southern properties which only experience 1 grape harvest per year. But we’ll get to that soon!
Map of Brazil's Wine Regions
The Southern Brazilian State of Rio Grande do Sul Holds 90% of Wine Production
About 2 hours drive from Porto Alegre in the temperature south, sits the majority of Brazil’s vineyards. The Brazilian State of Rio Grande do Sul claims 90% of the country’s wine production as well as 70% of the country’s rice.
Southern Brazil is home to all of their highest quality vineyards. It’s also where the vineyards experience just one harvest. This is great news for quality wine grapes as vines are just like Canadian bears, they love hibernating in winter! Furthermore, altitude plays a major role in assuring wines have juicy, mouthwatering acidity; since high elevations mean the grapes are cooled each night.
Latitude is yet another key factor in the south; the wine regions in Serra Gaùcha sit at 29º south, just at the fringes of where vitis vinifera struggle for existence and therefore, thrive. And as all WSET Level 1 wine students will tell you, quality wines are made between 30-50º latitude. (Even my hometown winery, Monte Creek Winery sits just outside this at the opposite end at 51º latitude!)
We’ll now look at the following regions within Rio Grande do Sul: Serra Gaúcha, and the only two highest-level officially delimited regions, AO Vale dos Vinhedos and AO Altos de Pinto Bandeira. We’ll also look at Campanha Gaúcha (also called Fronteira) – it’s a newer high-quality subregion catching waves!
Serra Gaúcha: Wine Regions Brazil
In terms of production, the most important region within the Rio Grande do Sul is the Serra Gaúcha, or “Cowboy hills.” Many of Brazil’s top wineries are here.
Here the climate is humid, much like the rest of Brazil, but the cloudy days make you feel like you’re somewhere in Northern Europe other than in Brazil. The entire region of Serra Gaúcha lays at 29º latitude – just at the fringes of where high-quality viticulture is possible.
Serra Gaúcha was settled by Italian immigrants – like 1000’s of them – in the 1870’s which is why viticulture became so important to the region. Today, there are 16,000 small, family-run holdings. I understand you can still hear some speaking ‘Talian’ the Venetian dialect in cafés.
Understandably, clay-oven pizzaria’s and pasta joints are a-plenty, but lately the region has diversified and restaurants of all stripes and colours can now be found.
For oenophiles, the soil is generally iron-rich clay over basaltic rock and black soils with high organic content. You’ll find a mélange of vitis vinifera bottlings: Chardonnay, Merlot, Tempranillo, Touriga Naçional, and many others.
Did you know?
A ‘Gaucho‘ is part of the romantic folklore in South America.
In the 19th century, they were skilled horse riders usually of mixed Indigenous and European ancestry. They became greatly admired by writers and therefore ingrained in legend in the area. Mythology considers them crafty – known for subtle tricks – as well as being brave and noble.
Vale dos Vinhedos AO: Wine Region Brazil
The most important region of Serra Gaúcha in terms of quality is the Vale dos Vinhedos (valley of wine). It was the first AO/ DO in Brazil. Vale dos Vinhedos is a mere 10 km from the wine city of Bento Gonçalves.
When the appellation was created, just 6 wineries had the right to use this term on their labels (including the Miolo Winery represented below). Today, the region represents 25% of the fine wine production of Brazil and has at least 25 wineries.
Altos de Pinto Bandeira AO: Wine Region Brazil
This AO or Appellation of Origin (or DO – Denominação di Origem), was just announced in November 2022 and it’s solely for traditionally made sparkling wines on volcanic basalt at 625 meters (2050 ft) elevation. Altos Pinto Bandeira AO is located within the Serra Gaúcha just 25 km from the town of Bento Gonçalves, the first plantings were in 1976 having been scouted by Chilean winemaker Mario Geisse for Moët et Chandon. He then founded his own Familia Geisse winery in Pinto Bandeira in 1979.
Three grape varieties are allowed in the DO: Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Riesling Italico (Welschriesling) and the wines must be made using the labourious traditional method for gaining bubbles. Currently, just 4 wineries can use the AO on their labels. Oddly enough, Moët isn’t one of them (likely because they are blending grapes from multiple areas).
Companha Gaúcha: Wine Region Brazil
A promising newer sub-region to look for in terms of quality, is the small area of Companha (800m elevation). To place it in geographical context, Companha (sometimes called Fronteira) borders Uruguay and Argentina as far south as we can go in Brazil.
At 800 meters (2625 ft) elevation, the Companha region is almost exclusively known for its sparkling wines. These wines are made using the traditional method and are comparable in quality to some of the best sparkling wines in the world. The best are made from Chardonnay vines and the grapes are grown in a mix of clay and basalt.
(In the tasting notes at the bottom of this post, I write about a delicious Merlot from Quinto do Seival in Campanha that tastes distinctively cool climate with its juicy red fruits!)
Here's the travelogue part of this post. But if you'd like to skip this part,
you may click on a link to get you there fast...
Best Time to Travel to Brazil...
The best way to taste Brazil is to go there. Yet, it’s a massive country and the weather is quite variable within. Generally speaking, it’s best to travel between November to March during their summer when the skies are clear.
Winter: June - August
Remember that Brazil is in the southern hemisphere so their seasons aren’t synced with us. So while August is the coolest month in Rio Grande do Sul, the temperatures go up and become more humid as you move north. So in Rio de Janeiro, it’s quite hot and humid in August.
Spring: - September to November
September and October are generally a great time to visit for lower business levels, better prices and cooler temperatures.
Summer: December - January
Welcome to Brazilian summer! This is when North Americans and Europeans travel to Brazil and prices go up significantly. On the other hand, extra nightclubs and festival are planned. Carnival, anyone?
Brazil, Portuguese and Football
If you don’t speak Portuguese, google translate may be your best friend while visiting Brazil. But we won’t let that stop us from visiting!
An easy way to make friends with a Brazilian is to compliment them on their record for FIFA wins. These guys took home the World Cup a whopping five times! They’re basically the champion of champions!
Getting to and around Serra da Mantiqueira...
The Serra da Mantiqueira region and spans across 3 states – São Paulo, Minas Gerais, and Rio de Janeiro. So, wine touring here requires a tad more preparation beforehand.
Lucky for us, there are plenty of ways to get there. Catch a flight, rent a car, or snag a taxi (take an official taxi) from the kiosk in the airport. But don’t bother looking for trains. In Brazil, trains are mainly used for hauling goods, not people.
Flights...
If you don’t like the crowds, the smaller airport is called Varginha (VAG) in Minas Gerais, but you’ll have to fly into Belo Horizonte (CNF) International Airport first.
Or, head to Sao Paulo Airport (GRU). From there it’s a 2-hour drive to Campos do Jordão.
Places to stay...
Why not stay at one of the areas wineries? Entre Vilas has a slow-food restaurant and a homey wooden lodge with a balcony from your room where you can sip the wines.
Or make basecamp in Serra di Mantiqueira in Campos do Jordão. From there it’s 36 minutes drive to the first winery. It’s just like we’re on top of the world in these mountains!
Stay in the towns if you are looking for a nightlife, or check out one of many small independent pousadas (inns) and chalets that dot the area. Staying at a fazenda (large estate or farm) is also an option. Airbnb, Booking.com and Vrbo are all available in Serra da Mantiqueira along with the independent hotels.
Other things to do while you're in the area...
There are plenty of charming cities and towns in the area that make for extra sightseeing if you’re ok to drive a little further. Think Monte Verde, Tiradentes, and Ouro Preto, just to name a few of the most picturesque options!
Hiking, ATV-ing, and more than a few stunning waterfalls and breathtaking views are everywhere. It’s a tourists’ mecca so choose from a host of cultural tours, churches and cathedrals to visit.
Often the wineries will host events in the evenings. These are worth checking out too.
Restaurants...
This area is ready and waiting for you to visit! So you’ll find restaurants of all cultures in Serra da Mantiqueira; Italian, Indian, fresh, raw Japanese sushi and more. Many of the wineries have restaurants so you really don’t have to go far for great food!
Travelling Around the Wine Regions in the State of Rio Grande do Sul
Getting to and around...
To get to Rio Grande do Sul, you must first fly to Porto Alegre. There are 2 international airports there. Choose Caixas Do Sul (CXJ) Airport.
If you’re serious about top wines, head straight to the official wine town of the area, Bento Gonçalves. It’s a 124 km route from the airport in Porto Alegre to Bento Gonçalves, where you’ll enter the town through a concrete wine tank! (about 1 hour). Miolo Winery in Vale dos Vinhedos is a mere 10km from Bento Gonçalves. It’s a good place to base yourself if your wine touring.
Pinto Bandeira AO, for sparkling wines is just 25 km from Bento Gonçalves – so you can hit them both up.
But, if you wanted to take your time and check out other sites in Brazil, head to the city of Gramado,
it takes 2 hours (100 km) from Bento Gonçalves by car.
Taxis and car rentals are readily available from the airport. There are shuttle buses and tours available to take you to wineries and lots of taxis in both Gramado and Bento Gonçalves.
Other things to do...
Bento Gonçalves
The Maria Fucaça Trem de Vinho (wine train) is a steam train that takes you through wine country sharing tales of the history of the region through the style of the era: singers, accordians and drummers.
It’s true that the actual train doesn’t run anymore, instead it’s now pulled by a caboose. Perhaps a little quaint, but wine not? The full trip is 5 hours with wine at arrival and 2 more stops for wine, a stop at an artisan chocolate shop where you can try Brazilian truffles and cultural stops like at Epopeia Italiana Park (the Italian History Museum).
Gramado
Visit Snowland , an indoor snow park for a cool and refreshing break. Or visit the picturesque Lago Negro park. There’s also the Mini Mundo, an outside display of miniature landmarks from around the world.
There’s tons of tours on offer in the area guiding you to wineries and cultural spots as well. And if you’re looking for a unique experience, don’t miss the Gramado Gaucho Night – it’s a tea-bonding ceremony with the Gauchos (cowboys), a full-on barbeque dinner, and some wild tales of Gaucho folklore. (Drinks not included).
Places to stay and eat...
In Gramado and Bento Gonçalves, you’ll find every type of accomadation from small cabins to luxury hotels. Or, head to a remote luxury inn (pousada) or villa outside of the main hubs. Airbnb, Booking.com, Expedia and Kayak provide options in all price points.
The same goes for restaurants. Where the area used to feature mostly Italian, you can now find everything under the sun.
Brazilian Food
Brazil also has a strong food heritage you won’t want to miss. So, prepare your taste buds for a culinary journey packed with flavour bombs! Here is just a sample of some foods you should try…
The foods of Minas Gerais...
Minas Gerais is the food capital of Brazil and a section of it sits in Serra da Mantiqueira. In fact, Vale Verde, considered to be the best Cachaça spirit, is also made here. When you visit, a local cheese called Minas is worth seeking out. It’s an unpasteurized soft, tangy cow’s cheese.
You should also try Mantiqueira parmesan cheese (Queijo Parmesão da Mantiqueira).
Cheese breads (pāo de queijo) are a local favourite and are made with Minas cheese. They are often served for breakfast with jam but vegetarians can take a stack for the road.
Food from the rest of Brazil...
During June festivals, you might stumble upon Canjica (or Mugunzá in the north), a tasty pudding or porridge made with white hominy corn, coconut milk, and sweet condensed milk. Served for breakfast or as a dessert. Don’t forget the cinnamon sprinkles!
Feijoada is a hearty stew has black beans, different cuts of pork, tomatoes, cabbage, and carrots, and cooked to perfection. It’s often served with fried kale, bacon bits, and toasted farova (toasted casava flour that looks just like panko breading).
And if you’re a seafood lover, you can’t miss Moqueca di Camarão, a slow-cooked seafood and vegetable stew with coriander all based on creamy coconut milk.
But the most famous Brazilian food of all is (drum roll…) beef and barbeque! Picanha is the most important cut, a triangular rump cut of beef that’s skewered, salted, and cooked over fire. And if you want the full churrasco (Portuguese for barbeque) experience, head to a churrascaria.
The Miolo Wine Group doesn’t just own one, not two, but FOUR wineries in Brazil. And lucky me, I got to sip on some of their delicious wines at the Vancouver International Wine Festival.
Also founded by an Italian immigrant, the Miolo Winery is a family-owned business that has been producing quality wine since 1897. Today, it is one of the largest and most respected wineries in Brazil, producing a wide range of wines, including sparkling, red, and white varieties.
One of their properties, the original Miolo Winery, is a mere 10 km from Bento Gonçalves. For a small fee, you can take part in a tasting of a pre-chosen selection of wines.
95% of the tourists to the area are Brazilian. Despite this, Miolo Winery offers tours in English – you just have to give them a heads up before you arrive.
Email visita@miolo.com.br or phone +55 54 21021500 to schedule a tour in English.
SommWine Tip
- if you’re at the Miolo Winery and one of the wines listed below isn’t part of the paid tasting, head to the back of the winery to their outside Wine Garden. You’ll find a relaxed atmosphere with bean bags and a bar that serves most of their wines along with nibbles. They also host some super cool picnic style events.
First up, we’ve got wine from the original estate, the Miolo Winery in Vale dos Vinhedos AO, near the town of Bento Gonçalves. And then there’s Quinta do Seival, which is set in the Campanha Gaúcha subregion, right on the border of Uruguay and Argentina.
I know by now you’re all dying to know what these wines taste like, so here are some of my notes. Just a heads up, I had to taste them all in one big, busy room, so I didn’t have time to rate them with points. But trust me, they wouldn’t be listed here, if they didn’t make the cut!
Tasting notes
* tasted Feb 27th, 2023
BC importer: CoBees
Miolo 'Single Vineyard' Alvarinho 2022 12% abv $23
Tasting Note
Alvarinho is the Albariño grape of Riàs Baixes, Spain – for wine students, it’s called a ‘semi-aromatic’ grape variety, and you’ll see why. This Alvarinho wine offers moderate aromas of banana and peach scents, backed by notes of wax and plasticene. And don’t be put off by the funky-sounding descriptors of wax and plasticene – they add a super cool twist to the wine. Plus, it’s got a medium+ refreshing acidity that’ll leave you feeling revitalized and ready for more adventures.
Quinto do Seival Merlot, Campanha, Rio do Sul, Brazil 2022 13% abv $12 CAD
With aromas of red and black plums, this wine really shows the best of both worlds from the outset. Juicy black raspberries and some dried purple flowers add complexity on the aroma front.
On the palate, things only get more exciting. The fresh purple flowers are hugged by a warm and cozy boysenberry blanket. And let’s not forget the medium acidity that adds an extra pop to each sip. Finally, the grand finale: a long and juicy sour cherry finish that leaves you wanting more. I could drink this wine alll day.
Miolo 'Single Vineyard' Touriga Nacional, Campanha Meridional, Brazil 2021 13.5% abv, $28 CAD
This is a deeply coloured wine with bright purple edges. The colour is deep purple, with edges that practically glow with excitement. Take a whiff and you’ll be hit with violets, blackberries, and black cherries, all jostling for your attention. There’s just a sprinkle of nutmeg, cinnamon, and clove spice from the oak which adds a dash of elegance, while hints of savoury black pepper and white pepper lurk in the background like mischievous little sprites.
The structure of the wine is just like Bordeaux – medium plus in all: acidity, body, alcohol, fine grained tannin and even the length! Add the black fruits above and it’s a symphony of flavour with a flourish of cranberries and sour cherries as the encore.
Miolo 'Lote 43' Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon, Vale dos Vinhedos, Brazil 2020 13.5% abv, $32 CAD
On the palate, the wine has medium acidity and light, fine tannins, which make it oh-so-smooth. The length of this wine is just like Goldilocks – not too long, not too short – and finishes medium + with a dried blackcurrant burst.
Summary
Truly, Brazil’s wine industry is a hidden gem that is quickly gaining recognition as an important quality wine region. With it’s uniquely hot and humid terroir, Brazilians have found ways to grow quality vitis vinifera wine whether by planting at high elevations, choosing to plant on well-drained soils, or harvesting in winter months. Their wines offer a diverse range of flavours and styles. If you’re lucky, you may just be able to find wines from Miolo Winery or from Quinto do Seival in your area. Otherwise, you’ll just have to travel to Brazil to see what all the fuss is about.
Before you go to Brazil, you should sign up to one of my WSET online wine courses,
which will give you the knowledge and tools you need to fully enjoy the region’s wines.
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References
‘Southern Exposure’ trade seminar at the Vancouver International Wine Festival on April 27, 2023 moderated by Evan Goldstein MS. Panelists included Rafael Boscaini, Marina Castillo, Salome Hopkins, Martin Kaiser, Aurelio Montes Jr., Francisco Roig.
‘The Wines of Argentina, Chile and Latin America’ by Christopher Fielden. Published by Mitchell Beazley, an imprint of Octopus Publishing Company, 2003. Chapter on Brazil.
‘The South American Wine Guide: Brazil‘ website and guides published by by Amanda Barnes, retrieved April, 2023.
‘Oxford Companion to Wine’ Fourth Edition edited by Jancis Robinson. Oxford University Press 2015. Entry on Brazil.
Special thanks to Rafael Boscaini, Export Analyst from Miolo Wine Group who took the time to review this post and offer corrections.
* See also links within the text above’
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